Aerosol Posted July 7, 2008 Report Share Posted July 7, 2008 I thought i'd just edit this topic since I already had it. Right now, I have a dx2200mt pc (datasheet here: http://static.tigerdirect.com/pdf/HP_dx2200_DesktopPC_Datasheet.pdf) This is what I plan to do to this thing (I found everything on newegg, so I'm pasting the item #s here for you guys too): Hard Drive Seagate Barracuda 7200.10 ST3500630AS 500GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive - OEM Model #:ST3500630AS Item #:N82E16822148136 Price: $79 Video Card ASUS EN8600GT MAGIC/HTP/512M GeForce 8600 GT 512MB 128-bit GDDR2 PCI Express x16 HDCP Ready SLI Supported Video Card - Retail Model #:EN8600GT MAGIC/HTP/5 Item #:N82E16814121231 Price: $79.99 Power Supply Antec Neo Power 430 430W ATX12V Power Supply - Retail Model #:Neo Power 430 Item #:N82E16817103939 Price: $89.99 Case XCLIO A380BK Fully Black High Gloss Finish SECC 1.0mm thickness ATX Full Tower Computer Case - Retail Model #:A380BK Item #:N82E16811103010 Price: $119.99 RAM (2 of these) Kingston 1GB 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 667 (PC2 5300) Desktop Memory Model KVR667D2N5/1G - Retail Model #:KVR667D2N5/1G Item #:N82E16820134045 Price: $41.98 Total: $411.94 This is all I really want to spend. What I want to know is, is there any way for me to get more bang for my buck? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gamerdude Posted July 7, 2008 Report Share Posted July 7, 2008 Alright, first thing, be careful. It seems like you're going to be switching cases. Often times the motherboards that come with OEM PCs like HP, Dell, Compaq, etc are tailored special for the case that they come in. You may find that when you swap cases that the motherboard mountings will not line up properly. The page you've linked to with your current PC's specifications don't (and I'm not surprised by this) state what motherboard it has. So...be prepared for the fact that the motherboard may not fit into your new case properly (not only from a mounting perspective, but you won't have the proper backplate for the I/O panel in the back, I almost guarantee you that). I'd suggest one of two things. 1. Keep your current case intact and just use that (don't know what kind of room you have for the power supply in that case though) 2. Buy a new motherboard. Obviously the more expensive route...depending on the mounting used for the CPU heatsink/fan, you may need to pick up a new one of those too because those are also sometimes designed specifically for the motherboard that the computer came with. The reason why I bring this to your attention is because in my very early days of computer upgrading, my neighbor did something similar...the nightmares we had with mounting and cpu installation...it was a mess. My neighbor ended up busting the cpu trying to get the heatsink to go on correctly... Hard Drive It's hard to go wrong with Seagate and/or Western Digital. I prefer the WD 640GB over the Seagate. It's only $10 more, but your choice is just fine. Video card I haven't used a 8600. I've always been a big 8800GT guy. I have one and it rocks everything I have. However, the price they run is about double what you're paying there. For what you want to spend, this should be good. Power Supply I'm not a huge fan of Antec for power supplies. I prefer Silverstone, PC Power & Cooling/Corsair, and Seasonic. This is a great Silverstone PSU that I think would be a better bang for your buck. Same price as the one you picked out, better wattage and better overall amperage. Link: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817256008 Case The case is snazzy. If you need to save some money, that's where I would tend to start to re-evaluate first. There's nothing wrong with your choice, it's just a little on the pricey side since it's cool looking. RAM The RAM is generic Kingston, nothing to say there. Looks good. Since you wanted two sticks though, just get the 2GB kit. It saves you from paying $6.99 for shipping twice if you buy the sticks separate. Link: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820134046 . Same memory, just two paired into one product =). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aerosol Posted July 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2008 I actually did find out what the motherboard is. it's an MSI 0A48.......and that's all CPU-Z can tell me. In all likelihood, the motherboard may not fit....is there a way I can match the screw holes on this motherboard to a diagram to see which form factor it fits (if any)? Failing that...I guess I could do with the cheapest motherboard that has socket LGA775 on it, so that i can keep my 3.0ghz Pentium 4 (for now). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DimensionWarped Posted July 8, 2008 Report Share Posted July 8, 2008 With motherboards, I'd be inclined to avoid cheap... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serephim Posted July 8, 2008 Report Share Posted July 8, 2008 Wow, you got a 8600 for only $76? I guess after the newer ones come out the price really does drop quickly. We got ours for around $125, and before that it was like $250. But yeah, if you're gonna shell out money on something, at least make sure to get a good Motherboard. Its all fun until it dies, then you're all fucked up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gamerdude Posted July 8, 2008 Report Share Posted July 8, 2008 I wouldn't go for a cheap motherboard either. As its already been stated, that's just asking for trouble. A good quality motherboard and power supply are essential to a stable system. I'd start cheaping out on RAM and video card first, if at all. As far as matching up the screw holes, the best way to do that would be to look at a standard atx motherboard picture. Your cases supports both atx and micro-atx. ATX reference Micro ATX reference The first picture is a little harder to pick out, but there are 9 screw holes (not including the four making a square around the CPU socket). The second picture (for micro atx) has 7 screw holes each lined with a metal cover. These two boards represent what most atx/micro-atx boards use for mounting. If the board inside your computer looks like it has the same mount scheme, then it has a good chance of being ok in your new case. Again, I can't guarantee anything though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarthFettDude607 Posted July 8, 2008 Report Share Posted July 8, 2008 I guess I don't know the whole story (if there's some prior reading I was supposed to do, forgive me for having failed to do so lol). Anyway, why are you making the case switch (EDIT: Just read on the data sheet that that's a micro-ATX. An 8600GT and a bigger PSU would probably be fairly cramped in there-- at any rate, just follow Gamerdude's advice, he seems to have cornered that pretty well already)? Sadly, I guess my post is rather useless... all the advice I could offer you is fairly moot since you're using (what I consider to be) borderline ancient hardware... For a single core, 3.0ghz is pretty good and you can probably squeeze some juice out of it still... but God, if I was in your position I'd just abandon my upgrade plans and stow away some cash for a better rig. I just assembled a mid-quality gaming PC for my guests that only ran me $400 after rebates, and it could easily run circles around your machine (not intended to sound like a braggart, it's just something to consider). Send me a PM if you're interested at all in assembling a new rig, I don't want to get into the nit and grit of it directly on the forums... and of course if you're not, just ignore me lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smidge204 Posted July 8, 2008 Report Share Posted July 8, 2008 This is all I really want to spend. What I want to know is, is there any way for me to get more bang for my buck? Yeah: don't shop at TigerDirect. Except for some rare occasions, Newegg has better prices. Of course, Newegg has "secret sales" all the time so their prices fluctuate every few days... if a price seems really good it probably won't be that way for long. Now... Hard drive ($79.99 + $0 S&H) Video Card ($64.99 + $8.25 S&H - $15 MIR*) Power Supply ($54.99 + $0 S&H [This is a limited time sales offer, $35 instant rebate!]) RAM ($38.99 + $0 S&H) Case: I recommend the cheapest shit case you can find that will hold everything together... because that's all it needs to do. If budget is a concern spending more than $50 on a case is retarded. Hell, I've bought $30 cases WITH POWER SUPPLIES and they work just fine. Subtotal: $238.96 S&H: $8.25 Total: $247.21 After mail-in rebates: $232.21 (Never bank on actually getting the rebate. Great if you do, but it's a gamble.) Now that you've saved like $150 you can consider getting a new mainboard and processor for a proper upgrade. =Smidge= Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Epon Posted July 8, 2008 Report Share Posted July 8, 2008 Smidge, I gotta grab you in about a month so I can use your Newegg buttfucking skills to help me build a new desktop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Damizean Posted July 8, 2008 Report Share Posted July 8, 2008 The power supply proposed by Smidge won't work: Geforce 8000 series require the power supply to output at least 20A on the +12V rails. The one proposed by GD won't work correctly either. I suggest you get a power supply that's capable of suplying that much amperage, or else you'll stress the PS and eventually get it burnt. I also suggest you get a case with a good cooling system (a good balanced air flow system would do it), as the normal operation temp. of the Geforce 8000 series is 70Cº, and it'll affect the ambient temp inside the case, and the other components.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smidge204 Posted July 8, 2008 Report Share Posted July 8, 2008 The Geforce 8600 GT, specifically, recommends 18 amps from a 350W PSU. I'm a little light there but honestly the difference isn't going to kill anything. We are not building a super gaming rig here. For what it's worth, I run a 400W PSU that only gives 18A per rail and haven't had any problems with my card. It's worth mentioning that it's been a year and I never turn my PC off except for hardware tweaking. It will be fine. =Smidge= Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Damizean Posted July 8, 2008 Report Share Posted July 8, 2008 Hmmm, I've seen other specs of Geforce 8600GT saying it needed an input amp. of at least 22A. Maybe it was just one of those overclocked by default cards. Anyway, on my professional experience while I was working as computer technician these last months, I've seen cases of PSU dying of stress by not being able to safely produce enough power for the graphics card, and most of them were regular gamers or 3D designers. Better safe than sorry. If the Geforce 8600GT he's gonna buy need only 18A, then any of those PSU can do the job. But I would take a look at it first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gamerdude Posted July 10, 2008 Report Share Posted July 10, 2008 Hmmm, I've seen other specs of Geforce 8600GT saying it needed an input amp. of at least 22A. Maybe it was just one of those overclocked by default cards.Anyway, on my professional experience while I was working as computer technician these last months, I've seen cases of PSU dying of stress by not being able to safely produce enough power for the graphics card, and most of them were regular gamers or 3D designers. Better safe than sorry. If the Geforce 8600GT he's gonna buy need only 18A, then any of those PSU can do the job. But I would take a look at it first. If that's really a concern (which honestly, the 8600 is a pretty weak card...if he was getting an 8800, I'd say differently...but 8600 is pretty meh), then get something like this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139003 12V rail is plenty powerful. *shrugs* I think in this case it won't really matter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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